I had stopped writing up every visit to momofuku ko, but there were enough notable changes on this visit to make it worthwhile. Plus, given the pause in queued-up restaurant visits, I have the time. For this visit, I chose to go for a Sunday luncheon instead of dinner. The menu is generally the same, and it’s a little more relaxed since no seats are turned, and it’s the last service of their “work week”.
They always have a non-alcoholic shrub available now, so I started with a pineapple-pepper shrub.
The starting bite was the familiar pomme soufflé. This time, the crispy potato puffs were filled with sour cream and topped with chives.
The next snack was a scallop doughnut lightly brushed with a slightly sweetened glaze and served warm. IN the past, this has come later in the sequence, but it worked fine here as a change in flavors and textures for the palate.
The familiar lobster paloise was next. It was a crispy roll with lobster, mint sabayon and Thai basil.
For wine, I ordered the 2004 Corbineau Cabernet Franc. However, they decided to let me try a Chenin Blanc they had open to go with the earlier part of my meal.
The next dish was cured mackerel, soy-pickled turnip, toasted nori, sushi rice, and a broth made from the bones and head of the mackerel.
Up next was the chickpea hozon (fermented chickpea purée – a momofuku specialty) with Maine uni and Spanish olive oil. Even though this is a regular menu item, it was not a part of my meal a couple of month ago.
The next course was also a menu regular: Ko egg (soft-cooked and smoked) with Japanese plum vinegar, fingerling potato chips, onion soubise, golden Kaluga caviar sourdough bread, cave-aged butter (aged for six months in a Brooklyn cheese cave). I always enjoy having this.
At this point, they went ahead and poured my glass of the 2004 Corbineau Cabernet Franc.
The next dish was brand new to me. It was American wagyu (from upstate New York) and foie gras, both very lightly grilled and served into a bowl with green peppercorn dashi. This was very good. The spiciness lingered on a bit after finishing the dashi. The dish was a little reminiscent of the thin-sliced sirloin au poivre they used to serve (which I liked, but stopped because the food inspectors said they couldn’t use the yakitori grill for lack of meeting requirements for its use).
The next course featured Dungeness crab with brown rice and bourbon. This dish should have come across better, but my palate had not yet recovered from the spiciness of the prior dish. That’s not the fault of this specific dish, which I thought was nicely prepared.
For the full write-up, click here.