Geranium 2nd Visit — Copenhagen (5/2019)

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It had been a few years since I visited Geranium (also for lunch). It is Copenhagen’s only Michelin 3-star restaurant. Since my last visit, they remodeled to bring part of the kitchen out in the open. They also changed the overall feel of the service to be a little less formal. Upon making a reservation, they take about a $100 deposit. They are still located in a building attached to a sports stadium (there is a view of the field from one of the kitchen areas).

They offer the same tasting menu for lunch as for dinner. They also offer three distinct levels of wine pairings, by-the-glass options, and a juice pairing. I went with the juice pairing along with a glass of white Bordeaux that they poured with a Coravin.

The first presentation was lobster in a cold milk and lemon verbena custard, topped with juice from fermented carrots and sea buckthorn oil.
The next small bite was some Jerusalem artichoke crisps with a pickled walnut leaf mayonnaise dip.

This was the very nice white Bordeaux that I had.

The next snack was razor clam tartare with aromatic herbs and crème fraiche inside edible “shells” made by the pastry chef to look like razor clam shells.

The next small bite was free range (a little bit of humor from them) snail eggs in a smoked cream cheese soup with oyster, dried biscuits, and nettles. The smokiness was a nice aromatic and taste effect.
I also ordered the optional course, which was presented at this time. It was Bulgarian ossetra caviar, pumpkin seeds and pumpkin seed oil, and pumpkin seed water. The pumpkin added a nice nuttiness to the dish experience. The blown-glass dish with black sand on the bottom was made on Bornholm Island. It was the inspiration for this food presentation.

The first juice pairing was Granny Smith apple juice, elderflower, egg whites and thyme oil. The ingredients were shaken together martini-style and then poured at the table.

This course featured scallop “red stones” (raw scallops colored with beetroot) with horseradish cream for dipping (not shown).

The next course was celeriac, dried mussels, Söl (seaweed from Iceland, shown on the right), celeriac juice, smoked yogurt, and pickled seeds. This was warm and had a mostly vegetable flavor.

For the full write-up, click here.

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kadeau — Copenhagen (5/2019)

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I heard about kadeau from a foodie friend who visits Copenhagen often. It has two Michelin stars and bases its cuisine on the ingredients from Bornholm Island. There are many food options in Copenhagen to choose from for the one night I had not yet reserved. I decided to try a new place rather than go back to any of the places I’d already visited. When making a reservation, the restaurant takes a deposit of about $100. Even though it is a small restaurant, they accept solo diner reservation. They stagger their reservation times, but each table will only have one seating for the evening. The restaurant is located down a narrow street behind an inconspicuous door (although there is a sign).

There is little separation between the kitchen and the dining areas. The décor seemed to integrate the two areas. There was also an outside courtyard area for drinks before or after dinner. In the kitchen, they have taken advantage of an existing chimney in the space and set up a kitchen fireplace for grilling and smoking.

They offer a single tasting menu each evening. In addition to the wine list, wine and non-alcoholic parings are available. I chose to go with the juice pairing as well as a glass of a 2014 Mâconnais Chardonnay.

The menu started out with a beverage made with water kefir, gooseberries, oxidized pear and fig leaf oil. This made for a kind of herbal palate awakener. This was followed with a series of snacks.

The first snack was a tart of green asparagus, fermented peas, fried kale and egg yolk. The kale gave it a nice soft crunch feel with each bite.
Next was kohlrabi, cured in asparagus juice and then cooked in fire, black currant and nobilis fir in the form of marinated pinecones and pine shoots. There was a pleasant, vegetable-firm crunch texture.

The next dish featured razor clams with gooseberry juice, white currants, cherry blossoms, rose petals and elderberry flower buds. This was light and flavorful.
The plate featured brill (similar to turbot) marinated in cherry blossom oil and garnished with marigold and cherry blossoms. These flavors blended nicely together.

For the full write-up, click here.

noma 2nd Visit — Copenhagen (5/2019)

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My first visit to noma was several years ago to the original restaurant, where I had the classic menu. Since then, noma has moved to a new location. It’s still in the same general area of Copenhagen, but north of the old location. It still has 2 Michelin stars. The new restaurant is much more expansive than the original location. When checking in for dinner, guests were led to a greenhouse where a hard cider and a non-alcoholic rhubarb-fennel beverage were offered. The menu has also changed. A series of seasonal menus are now offered throughout the year. In the winter/spring, they offer a seafood menu. The summer menu is focused on vegetables. Fall/winter offers a game and forest menu.

I had secured a reservation at the community table for the seafood menu. This seating is in a different part of the complex from the regular dining tables. We were all led from the greenhouse where we checked in, through gardens of herbs and produce, and into a building which had a large table located next to a large kitchen/staging area. A booking at the community table is prepaid for the food at the time of reservation (as are normal table seatings). An additional requirement at the community table is that diners must order either the wine pairing or the non-alcoholic pairing (which is paid for after dinner). It is possible to cancel a reservation up to five days before the scheduled dining date without penalty.

I chose to have the juice pairing. The first one presented was a green gooseberry juice infused with elderflower. The alcoholic pairing began with a sour beer.
The meal began with fresh (opened 3-4 minutes prior to serving) Norwegian scallop, served raw and seasoned with salt. The roe was separated and presented just to the side. I was expecting the flavor to have a touch of sweetness, but I did not get that.

The next course was an array of lightly cooked and raw clams. Venus clams (cooked) seasoned with Mirabelle plum juice (front left), carpet clams (cooked) with sorrel and cooked grains (front right), mahogany clams (raw) from north of the Arctic Circle seasoned with fresh cream and pine salt (back left), and razor clams (raw) served with raw walnuts and cooked grains. Textures from raw walnuts with razor clams and cooked grains with two of the other clams were a nice complement. The center of the plate had a piece of quince cooked in a salt brine. It was recommended that we squeeze this over the clams for additional seasoning.

Wine pairing was from Central Spain (a pre-phylloxera Verdejo).

For the full write-up, click here.

Studio at the Standard 2nd Visit — Copenhagen (2/2016)

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I was looking forward to returning to Studio.  Not only did I find the food interesting last summer, but I wanted to see what premium pour wines they would have that I might be interested to try this time.  They seated me at the exact same spot at the counter where I had sat in June, so I had a nice view of the kitchen and dish preparation area.  I showed up a little early, but they were happy to seat me.

Upon seating, they offered some champagne, either complimentary or with a charge, depending upon the label you select.  Since I was going to focus on wine, I skipped the champagne this time and went for a non-alcoholic opener – hay lemonade.  This went well with the opening snacks that started to arrive soon after my drink was served.

The first presentation was a cold gooseberry broth with pine to cleanse and awaken the palate. This also started off my experience in June.

The next snack was a sandwich of fried shredded potatoes with cod roe. This was seasoned with salt and vinegar and included fried leeks.  When served in June, they used potato chips to make the sandwich.

For the full write-up, click here.

Relae 3rd Visit — Copenhagen (2/2016)

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I wasn’t sure what a wintertime visit to Copenhagen would be like on the food front.  But I was betting it still had to be really good.  Relӕ was my first stop on my visit.  My prior visits had been in the summer and fall.  I again went with the longer, 7-course menu.

Even before I had made my menu choice, they came out with this warm bite.  It was a buckwheat pancake filled with pistachio cream and fresh herbs.  It was a nice savory start to the meal.

For the wine choice, they offered a nice Austrian wine, made with the fruit of old vines in a national park.  They also soon served warm sourdough bread and olive oil after serving the wine.

For the full write-up, click here.

Amass 2nd Visit — Copenhagen (6/2015)

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It had been almost exactly one year since my first visit to Amass.  With my visit again to Copenhagen, I decided to try it again and see if anything was different, now that they had more than a year being in business.  Since I had been there before, I knew the bus route details to get to the restaurant, or so I thought.  When I arrived at the bus stop to make my connection, I saw the next bus departure time as 44 minutes.  When I looked at the posted schedule, I saw that the bus only runs hourly, something I did not remember.  If I waited for the next bus, I would be late.  Fortunately, I remembered that during the day, the harbor ferry bus has a stop near the restaurant (terminates its run there), and the stop was nearby.  Despite the posted schedule, the ferry came and brought me to the restaurant at just the right time.

The menu line-up was different than a year ago.  The option of ordering the extended menu was the same, so I went with that option again.

They don’t have a wine-by-the-glass list.  I told my server my wine preferences, and he brought a glass of a Chardonnay from Jura in France, which worked fine with my meal.

For the full write-up, click here.

Relae 2nd Visit — Copenhagen (6/2015)

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My first visit to Relӕ was almost 3 ½ years ago.  I decided I wanted to go back, but I had a booking problem when the predicted dates for the reservation availability came.  So, I had given up trying, but then looked again after several days.  While no reservations were available for dinner on the planned day, they were serving lunch on that Saturday.  I decided that would be fine, since I knew it would not be long meal, and I would have enough time to recover before dinner.  And, the restaurant is an easy and quick bus ride from Central Copenhagen. It currently is awarded one Michelin star.

The menu is still organized around either omnivore or herbivore groups.  However, you can order a longer menu (7 courses instead of 4) which crosses both groups of menu choices, which is what I chose.

I was again given a seat at the counter that overlooks the kitchen area.  However, they recently remodeled and removed one of the counter sections (the one in front, where I sat before).  When you walk into the restaurant and look right, you are almost in the kitchen area.  You still have all your utensils in a drawer at your seating station.

I asked for a wine recommendation, and my server suggested the 2012 Domaine de La Tournelle Fleur de Savagnin, Evelyne et Pascal Clairet from Jura, France.

For the full write-up, click here.