kadeau — Copenhagen (5/2019)


I heard about kadeau from a foodie friend who visits Copenhagen often. It has two Michelin stars and bases its cuisine on the ingredients from Bornholm Island. There are many food options in Copenhagen to choose from for the one night I had not yet reserved. I decided to try a new place rather than go back to any of the places I’d already visited. When making a reservation, the restaurant takes a deposit of about $100. Even though it is a small restaurant, they accept solo diner reservation. They stagger their reservation times, but each table will only have one seating for the evening. The restaurant is located down a narrow street behind an inconspicuous door (although there is a sign).

There is little separation between the kitchen and the dining areas. The décor seemed to integrate the two areas. There was also an outside courtyard area for drinks before or after dinner. In the kitchen, they have taken advantage of an existing chimney in the space and set up a kitchen fireplace for grilling and smoking.

They offer a single tasting menu each evening. In addition to the wine list, wine and non-alcoholic parings are available. I chose to go with the juice pairing as well as a glass of a 2014 Mâconnais Chardonnay.

The menu started out with a beverage made with water kefir, gooseberries, oxidized pear and fig leaf oil. This made for a kind of herbal palate awakener. This was followed with a series of snacks.

The first snack was a tart of green asparagus, fermented peas, fried kale and egg yolk. The kale gave it a nice soft crunch feel with each bite.
Next was kohlrabi, cured in asparagus juice and then cooked in fire, black currant and nobilis fir in the form of marinated pinecones and pine shoots. There was a pleasant, vegetable-firm crunch texture.

The next dish featured razor clams with gooseberry juice, white currants, cherry blossoms, rose petals and elderberry flower buds. This was light and flavorful.
The plate featured brill (similar to turbot) marinated in cherry blossom oil and garnished with marigold and cherry blossoms. These flavors blended nicely together.

For the full write-up, click here.

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