It had been a few years since I visited Geranium (also for lunch). It is Copenhagen’s only Michelin 3-star restaurant. Since my last visit, they remodeled to bring part of the kitchen out in the open. They also changed the overall feel of the service to be a little less formal. Upon making a reservation, they take about a $100 deposit. They are still located in a building attached to a sports stadium (there is a view of the field from one of the kitchen areas).
They offer the same tasting menu for lunch as for dinner. They also offer three distinct levels of wine pairings, by-the-glass options, and a juice pairing. I went with the juice pairing along with a glass of white Bordeaux that they poured with a Coravin.
The first presentation was lobster in a cold milk and lemon verbena custard, topped with juice from fermented carrots and sea buckthorn oil.
The next small bite was some Jerusalem artichoke crisps with a pickled walnut leaf mayonnaise dip.
This was the very nice white Bordeaux that I had.
The next snack was razor clam tartare with aromatic herbs and crème fraiche inside edible “shells” made by the pastry chef to look like razor clam shells.
The next small bite was free range (a little bit of humor from them) snail eggs in a smoked cream cheese soup with oyster, dried biscuits, and nettles. The smokiness was a nice aromatic and taste effect.
I also ordered the optional course, which was presented at this time. It was Bulgarian ossetra caviar, pumpkin seeds and pumpkin seed oil, and pumpkin seed water. The pumpkin added a nice nuttiness to the dish experience. The blown-glass dish with black sand on the bottom was made on Bornholm Island. It was the inspiration for this food presentation.
The first juice pairing was Granny Smith apple juice, elderflower, egg whites and thyme oil. The ingredients were shaken together martini-style and then poured at the table.
This course featured scallop “red stones” (raw scallops colored with beetroot) with horseradish cream for dipping (not shown).
The next course was celeriac, dried mussels, Söl (seaweed from Iceland, shown on the right), celeriac juice, smoked yogurt, and pickled seeds. This was warm and had a mostly vegetable flavor.
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